Lunch at Stefano Lubiana's

Osteria
Winding up through dry sclerophyll bush, on the slopes of the Derwent River, lies a biodynamic vineyard that produces some Tasmania’s most respected wines.
Stefano Lubiana and partner Monique, have taken their passion for quality, organic farming and seasonal produce from the vineyard to the kitchen, and your plate. Real food that real people want to eat.
If you have tried Stefano’s cellar door in the past, you might expect basic sheds and fermentation tanks.
Today the sweeping driveway takes you towards an impressive Tuscan villa, with grand floor to ceiling doors opening into the restaurant.
Around six weeks new, the Osteria is the brightest shining star in Hobart’s culinary sky.
Tip: Osteria is an inexpensive, casual Italian restaurant.
The Two Girls and the Only Child went for lunch and were riveted.
The Osteria is simply beautiful. Set against the Derwent and the Wellington Ranges, diners also enjoy a view of the vineyard and kitchen garden. You will probably see the chef picking through the produce that will end up in front of you.
Tip: Stephano Lubiana started as a market garden with 200 hectares. They sold off 70 hectares which provided the capital to start the vineyard you see today.
Eating is off blue and earth toned ceramics, drinking is from uniquely shaped glassware. Matthew, our attendant at lunch, was affable and knowledgeable. The ambience is stunning but relaxed.
Tasting notes
What we consumed:
Blue label Riesling, $27.
Antipasto – cured meats, fontina, frittata, pickled mushrooms, marinated sun-dried tomato, white anchovies and wood oven bread, $32.
Arrosto di Zucca e Melazane Lasagne – house-made lasagna, roast pumpkin and eggplant, fontina, mozzarella, parmesan, $26.
Two quails, served to share!
Quaglia Affumicata con Insalata di Senape – house smoked quail, mustard leaf, gorgonzola picante, crisp prosciutto, red grapes, toasted walnuts, vincotto dressing, $29.
Dolce di Tiramisu – coffee soaked savoiardi, zabaglione and mascarpone layers, Dutch cocoa, $14.
Before choosing your wine, you can avail yourself of the cellar door, making an informed decision.
Quite a lot of what you will find on the antipasto platter has been made in house, cured meats, sun dried tomatoes and marinated mushrooms.
The lasagna has multiple layers of delicately thin pasta between its vegetables and fontina.
The Only Child and The Other Girl chose the quail that comes in singular, but they shared a second quail for an additional $9, plated up and presented in front of the Only Child coincidentally. Being an only child, she temporarily forgot the deal to share the second bird and thought her platter was part of her privilege. Not accustomed to sharing, she needed a gentle reminder.
The tiramisu came to the table set in a large bowl and scooped out in the requested portion which was served with a small bowl of Morello cherries in vanilla and Kirsch syrup. Sworn to secrecy on the Tiramisu’s special ingredients, but we can say it includes Marsala which you'll notice if you stay a moment in the tasting. The rest you have to work out yourself.
It was such an good meal, it was almost spiritual. The Only Child got left off the coffee order so the Two Girls might just believe in a little karma now.
It’s a beautiful place to enjoy a lovely lunch.
This Girl already has another booking.
Recommended absolutely.
Open for lunch Thursday to Monday, 11 am to 3 pm (closed during July 2014).
Find them at 60 Rowbottoms Road, Granton and on the web here.
To secure your place at the table call 6263 7457 or email them at wine@slw.com.au

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